How to Install BBK Tuned Length Headers

Installing BBK Tuned Length Shorty Headers
By:  Rusty Woodall  a.k.a. "Rocketman"

 Everyone out there has been hearing all the buzz about the newly designed BBK Tuned Length Shorty Headers.   Our 2 valve modular motors with the factory cast exhaust manifolds makes for one coughing, wheezing poor breathing air pump.  Installing the new BBK headers will turn your stang into a free breathing tri-athlete.


How to Install BBK Tuned Length Headers

Here's a great step by step with all the special secrets for installing BBK Headers on a 2003 4.6L SOHC GT Automatic.
BBK's engineering staff did a great job designing these new shorty headers.  They are CAD-designed (Computer Aided Designed) for optimum flow. 



 They have 1-5/8 inch computer-mandrel bent tubes for some major freak'n flow of spent gases and they feature a unique cast collector on the passenger side with a machined surface that mates perfectly with the Ford factory metal gasket.  




Although it adds a little weight to the header it virtually guarantees a leak-free connection to your H pipe or in my case, a MAC Catted Pro-Chamber mid-pipe. 



I picked up myCatted Pro-Chamber for $441 and purchased it directly from MAC in Temecula CA.  They're web site seems to be very user friendly but, I called the 800 number and placed my order over the phone.  I received my shipment 2 days later.  Very good service!



 I picked up my headers at the Brothers Performance spring side walk sale out in Corona, CA this year.  I got the ceramic coated ones that are normally $399 on sale at Brothers for $350.
I have had the opportunity of installing headers on both a 2002 GT and a 1998 GT.  The 02 was SLP long tube headers that we did by jacking the engine up a couple inches and the 98 was done during a head swap where we bolted the FRPP shorty's onto the heads prior to installing them onto the block in the car.  I did my install by dropping the K-member.  I have to say that of all the ways I have done header installs, dropping the K-member is the better way to go.  There is by far more room and a direct shot to all the header studs/bolts.  I did all the removal and installation of the headers from under the car.  It's my opinion that the time it takes to remove the K-member makes up for the time spent trying to get at a few inaccessible bolts.
Since I had made the decision to drop the K-member for the install I decided to replace the factory unit with a lighter one from PA Racing.



 This made the reassembly process much easier due to the 40 lb. weight difference.



The PA-Racing K-member weighs 20 lbs.  To make the K-member swap as economical as possible, I purchased my mild-steel unit directly from PA Racing, $395 shipped, with spring perches welded in and I used the factory A-arms and my current suspensions which is Tokico Blue Struts and Eibach Pro-Kit springs.



Here are the steps I took to install BBK Tuned Length Shorty Headers.

Parts:
* BBK Headers, includes gaskets, header bolts, collector studs, washers, nuts
* MAC Pro-Chamber, includes bolts and studs
* PA Racing K-member, you will need to order steering rack bolts from PA Racing.  The factory bolts are too long
* Ford Metal Gasket "passenger side"
* Shop towels, parts cleaner/brake cleaner

Tools:
* Jack stands, I used 4
* Floor Jack, you'll need 2
* Wood, 2X4, 4X4 about 12 inches long
* Socket Wrenches , 1/4, 3/8, 1/2
* A variety of 13 mm wrenches, you will need an S shaped 13mm
* Socket sizes 5mm, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 24mm
* Various extensions
* Large crescent wrench
* 1-1/16 open end wrench
* Hammer and rubber mallet
* Zip ties, coat hanger

Special Tricks:

Installing BBK headers will require an adequate level work space and some good mechanics tools with general mechanical "know-how" and some working experience.  I did use air tools which made removing the A-arms and K-member a lot easier.



 I suggest you help with someone else's install before attempting this one for yourself.  There are several tricks that I learned along the way that will help you when you do yours.  One trick is to get the S-shaped box wrench,



some swivel head and regular ratcheting wrenches, all in 13mm.  The BBK header flange is designed with slotted mounting holes.  You will need to use the top 2 center slots on the passenger side and at least one bottom one.  You will never get the top bolts in after the header is in place as I found out the hard way.  You will have to use the S-wrench to get to one of those top center bolts from the underside of the car.  I tried for quite a while to reach it from above and found that it is easily accessible from underneath with the S-wrench.  A couple more tricks are you will need to remove the starter even if you remove the K-member.  You will also need to remove both engine mounts from the block.  You cannot get the headers into position without removing the engine mounts.  I used the BBK supplied gaskets and found them to be a very good design and sealed perfectly and I did buy a brand new Ford metal gasket for the passenger side header to mid-pipe attach point.  The gasket was $9.00 at the local Ford dealer.
I also built an engine support brace



 to support the engine and give me a clear working space underneath.  You can build you own (mine cost me about $50) or buy one from any online tool warehouse.



 You do not have to remove the dip stick tube from the block.  The BBK headers have a split flange on the driver side and the dip stick tube fits perfectly between the 2 flanges.  I did have to remove the 8mm bolt holding the tube to the driver side head.  You will have to bend the tube a little to get it into the right position to fit between the 2 header flanges.  When installing the K-member use the motor mount nuts to hold the K-member in place while you align the 8 attach points. 



 The PA Racing K-member will align itself perfectly but, you will need to spread the rear attach points with a slight amount of pressure to get all 4 holes to line up. 



One trick is the built in nuts inside of the car frame can be moved around slightly to give your self a little more advantage when aligning everything.  Another small trick is to install the factory A-arms first before you install the steering rack.



The A-arm bolt heads will not clear the rack if you put it in first.



You will not need O2 extension for an 03 GT but, you will need to detach the clip on the O2 female connector on the driver side from the fire wall and pull it down a little to give you an extra inch or so of length.


Quick Steps:


1. Jack up car and support on jack stands, the higher the better




2. Remove front rims
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable
4. Remove brake calipers and hang out of the way




5. Remove tie rods from steering knuckle
6. Remove sway bar end links




7. Remove struts
8. Remove ABS sensor from spindle - Torx bit size E8
9. Remove Springs
10. Remove steering rack and using zip ties, tie it up to the sway bar




11. Support the engine and remove motor mount nuts



12. Remove K-member



13. Remove H-pipe
14. Remove exhaust manifolds




15. Remove Starter
16. Remove motor mounts
17. Install BBK Gaskets using slot locations to hold the gasket
18. Install headers




19. Install motor mounts
20. Install starter
21. Install K-member
22. Install motor mount nuts
23. Install A-arms



24. Install steering rack




25. Install springs




26. Reattach ABS wiring harness
27. Reattach struts
28. Reattach sway bar end links
29. Reattach tie-rod end links
30. Put on rotors and reattach brake calipers




31. Put rims back on
32. Install mid-pipe




33. Install O2 sensors
34. Reconnect battery
35. Lower car
36. Go test drive your freak'n bad ass stang!